Wednesday, November 16, 2005


I have to admit, the first time J. and I drove by here, we scoffed at the NY-named bar and subway tile look--cheeseball. However, Bowery's location between our two employers made it a convenient place to meet for an after-work drink without resorting to a more club-like Hollywood venue, and I'm glad we did.

It's a long, narrow space with lots of mirrors. The large front window opens wide to the street, alternately providing fresh air or cigarette smoke. Two tvs above the bar, which normally annoys me, but it works here, perhaps because they're so high and the sound is off.

I started with some sweet potato fries while I waited for J. It may have been my hunger talking, but these tasted fabulous. Crisp on the outside but sweet and slightly creamy on the inside. They were covered in a generous dusting of salt, but it enhanced, not overwhelmed, the sweet potato flavor.

The dinner menu is short and simple--burger, steak, short ribs. The salads both sounded and looked good as well--the cesar and the mixed greens with goat cheese both passed by our table--the portions appeared large and well-dressed.

I opted for the chicken sandwich and J. orderd the burger with the works (mushrooms, gruyere, bacon, sauteed onions). The chicken was disappointing--though the baguette was crisp and well-buttered, the chicken itself was dry and boring. It came au jus, which unfortunately didn't help--the jus tasted like water colored brown. According to J. the burger was tasty, hard not to be with all the accoutrements. However, it came served on an english muffin??? Huh??? Perhaps a interesting concept, but as J. argued, a concept that should have been nixed the first time the kitchen attempted it, particularly when the burger has lots of toppings.

Overall, a solid place for a drink and a snack. Decent wine list, good beer list (despite the $5 cans of PBR--my Midwest roots are appalled at what hipster Angelenos will pay for Pabst), and nice liquor selection, including a solid collection of scotch. Bowery's proximity to the Arclight will I'm sure lead to more visits from us before or after movies. While we haven't eaten at Bowery's neighbor, Magnolia, we have had drinks there and much prefer the space (and service) at Bowery.

6268 Sunset Blvd
Hollywood, CA 90028
(323) 465-3400

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