Monday, February 26, 2007

Milk, It Does A Body Good?

Perhaps not, at least in the form of the shakes, malts and sundaes at LA's newest ice cream spot--Milk. But nevermind the body, a banana peanut malt (homemade banana ice cream, fresh bananas, malted milk, roasted peanuts), is certainly good for the soul.

It's especially good for soul after having spent over SEVEN HOURS in the ER the night before. Nothing serious, but something that had to be taken care of, however ridiculously slowly. J and I had tried to erase the memory right away with late night diner food and ice cream at Astro Family Restaurant in Silver Lake, but there we received the most disappointing concoctions ever. My "root beer float" consisted of half a glass of ice(!), one-third of a glass of rootbeer, with a scoop of vanilla resting on top. Huh??

Hence, Saturday afternoon we moseyed over to the recently opened Milk, on the southeast corner of Beverly and Pointsettia. Executive chef and owner Bret Thompson has created a happy, high-ceilinged spot, with plenty of homemade ice creams by the cone or dish (I sampled a divine blood orange), 25 cent bonbons, extra-special treats like my banana malt or J's strawberry shortcake malt (malted milk, vanilla ice cream, strawberry sorbet, and buttery, vanilla cookie crumbles), and a baked goods case starring a blue velvet cake made with blueberry puree. The menu also includes a handful of sandwiches and salads, but clearly the dairy products steal the show. If they'd get some blinds to curtail the hot late afternoon sun, it'd be nearly perfect. Hopefully, it won't take another hospital misadventure before we're back.

More Milk reports from Eating LA and Chowhound.

Milk
7290 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323-939-MILK

Newsflash: The Food Network is on TELEVISION

Recently, celeb chef Anthony Bourdain got the foodblog community all atwitter over his commentary on the Food Network's biggest stars. Sure, the comments were mildly humorous, worth a read on a boring workday afternoon, but I'm amazed at the righteous indignation of the comments to his post (and the ones on the follow up posts by Michael Ruhlman, a food writer). Foodies are just disgusted, disgusted I tell you, with the dreck on the food network. It is a moral outrage.

Um, hello? The Food Network is on television. Have ya checked out what's on television these days? Wifeswap, anyone? Desperate Housewives? So NoTORIous? American Idol? Queer Eye for the Straight Guy? Entertaining, maybe. Highbrow, no. And guess what, you grumpy food fanatics, complaining that the Food Network shows are all about selling viewers stuff? DUH! That's kinda the point of the whole medium these days.

Finally, what I find most amusing, are the commenters that complain heartily about the shows, and can complain in very specific detail, outlining every single one of Sandra Lee's ridiculous concoctions on every episode in the past month. Here's a thought--if it's so incredibly horrible, turn it off! Change the channel! Unsubscribe from cable! At the very least get down off your moral high horse long enough to realize it's just TV.

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Bright Ideas at The Edison, Downtown LA

A night at the newly opened Edison in downtown LA was a sure cure for last week's jury duty depression. As I sunk into a leather armchair, inside a repurposed furnace bathed in a hazy light from dim antique bulbs, deep in the bowels of a former power plant, bourbon swizzle in my hand, the six hours I'd spent viewing security camera footage in the courtroom slipped my mind. The cavernous space is just so damn cool---lots of cozy corners with comfy chairs, dramatic industrial metalwork and machinery, David Bowie on the jukebox, and friendly, competent bartenders.

Like most of the drinks on the specialty cocktail menu, my bourbon concoction was on the sweet side, thanks to the apricot brandy and ginger ale. So easy to drink, I downed it quickly and moved on to a well-constructed Manhattan, better for sipping. Fellow blogger LA/OC Foodie tried some of the other special drinks on a recent visit, including the Lady MacBeth and Steel Trap (visit her site for the details).

The kitchen's not yet up and running, but the website menu promises some old school treats--deviled eggs, crab louie, shrimp cocktail--as well as basic upscale bar food--sweet potato fries, pressed pork sandwich, fried calamari. In the meantime, you're welcome to head next door to Pitfire Pizza Company, order a pie, and bring it back to the Edison.

It's open Wednesday thru Saturday, and has some "cocktail hour" specials until 8 pm--when we visited all specialty drinks were 1/2 price. Downtown has long been one my favorite LA neighborhoods, and the addition of the Edison is just another excuse to head east, not west. For another report, check out Eater LA's glowing (ha!) review.

The Edison
108 W. 2nd St #101 (in the alley)
Los Angeles, CA
1-213-613-0000

Lightbulb photo by Jason Rowland

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Retreat to Hermosa Beach


My parents escaped the Midwestern winter last weekend, and treated J and me to a few nights at the lovely Beach House hotel in Hermosa Beach. Our oceanfront suite was steps away from the surf, and the room's fireplace, jacuzzi tub, abundance of pillows, and stereo system made for a decadent retreat. Though we could have easily spent the whole time alternating between lazing on the beach and lazing in our rooms, we did venture forth for meals, and we found some standouts.



The best was La Sosta Enoteca, a cozy spot on a residential block right on the border between Hermosa and Manhattan Beach. The Italian, specifically Venetian, pasta menu features a favorite of mine, risi i bisi, as well as gnocchi in lobster sauce, multiple risottos and various homemade noodles. My parents went for the lobster gnocchi--light potato dumplings enveloped in a creamy sauce with small lobster pieces. I settled on the risotto with taleggio and speck (smoked mountain ham). Richly flavored, it was one of the better risottos I've had outside of my own kitchen. I also started with a sweetly-dressed salad of arugula and radicchio, a pleasing contrast to my risotto, simple and satisfyingly crisp. Had we not snacked back at the hotel, we'd likely have ordered a starter of meats and cheese--they have quite the selection. With all the hard surfaces, the place is LOUD and the music playing when we arrived (some kind of thump-thump-thump techno type garbage) didn't help, but the soundtrack soon settled on some Miles Davis, making for a more relaxing meal.


Mediterraneo, right on the pedestrian-only strip leading to the Hermosa pier, was a pleasant surprise. Its shady patio was the setting for a lazy lunch comprised of a handful of tapas (which you order like sushi, by checking off your picks on a slip of paper), a Spanish Cobb Salad (serrano ham, cabreles cheese), a gyro and a chicken sandwich--accompanied by some beers and, in my case, a tasty mojito (that traditional mediterranean drink). The prices were right, the food was flavorful, and best of all, we felt like we were on an exotic vacation, less than an hour away from home.

La Sosta Enoteca
2700 Manhattan Ave
Manhattan Beach, CA 90254
310.318.1558

Mediterraneo
73 Pier Ave
Hermosa Beach, CA 90254
310.318.2666

What I've Learned While On Jury Duty

1--One bag of Peanut M&M's, carefully rationed, will get you through an afternoon of testimony.


2--Pitfire Pizza Company (interior, right) serves up a crispy, thin crust, flavorful, individual-sized pie with better-than-usual toppings, such as the artichoke special I savored. Tomorrow I plan to try the folded pizza with fennel sausage, but I'll have to bypass the newly added wine and beer menu.

3--When searching for a good bento lunch box in Little Toyko, don't bother with Sushi&Teri in the Japanese Village Plaza, even if it is full of people (often [but not always, for example: Cheesecake Factory] busy = good spot). For $10, you get a bland bento that'll leave you wanting more.

4--Fiore Natural Italian Yogurt, also in the Japanese Village Plaza, seems to have a new, or perhaps secondary name, If Frozen Yogurt--the signage confuses. It also has a new flavor of froyo--blackberry--which was mighty tasty, though the kiwi and mango toppings weren't as fresh as I'd have liked.

5--A law degree does not equal intelligence or eloquence. Okay, this I had already guessed, but the jury duty? Proves the theory.

M&M picture from M&M website; Pitfire photo from Tales of an LA Addict, who has a lovely flickr photoset highlighting a pizza and wine tasting at Pitfire.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

From Mexico to Korea via Paris
On Valentine's, a Love Note to Los Angeles

Monday night I was deep in the west valley, looking for a quick bite to eat before a meeting. Yoshinoya? Um, no. Jack in the Box? No way. KFC? Not a chance. Wait, what's that neon light in the strip mall up ahead? Casa de Taco? Open 24 hours? Menudo on Sundays? Sold. $4 bought me two carnitas tacos with a citrus-y salsa verde, rice, beans and soda. I considered skipping my meeting and staying in this cozy joint, listening to Mexican country on the jukebox and joining the other patrons in swapping b.s. with the guy behind the counter, but my Spanish's not so good, and work called.


Fast forward to Tuesday morning. I was actually driving to the office (usually I'm a public transit gal), and decided to take a short detour down Western Ave to Paris Baguette Cafe and treat my coworkers to some breakfast pastries. This unexpected chain cafe comes to LA via South Korea, where over 1500 locations exist. I'd never been, but heard good things from others, and I wasn't disappointed. This self-service cafe (you grab a box, tongs, and go to town) produces a wonderfully flaky pastry and stocks the standards--chocolate croissants, apple turnovers--as well as Asian-influenced treats like a sweet potato pastry twist, and red bean buns. My favorite was the banana pastry, full of vanilla-y, banana cream, topped with banana slices.

This decadent breakfast was just barely topped by Tuesday's lunch at Mapo, a Korean restaurant just around the corner from my office. I snagged a seat among the businessmen and tucked into the best bibimbap (called dolsot, pictured left) I've had in Koreatown. It came sizzling in a big stone pot, and the bottom layer of rice crisped and carmelized on the bottom, adding a crunchy just-short-of-burnt taste to the already flavorful bowl.

Yes, Los Angeles, it's taken me four long years, but I love ya.

Pastry photos from Paris Baguette's website; bibimbap photo from Il Primo Uomo

Casa de Taco

7300 Topanga Canyon Boulevard Suite 8
Canoga Park, CA 91303-3333
818.888.8750

Paris Baguette
125 N. Western Ave.
Los Angeles 90004
323.467.0404

Mapo
Strip mall at northwest corner of Normandie and 6th

Monday, February 12, 2007

Only 5 Ingredients in Haagen-Dazs

An ice cream craving hit late Saturday night, and coffee Haagan-Dazs was the best my neighborhood Albertson's had to offer. I was pleasantly surprised to discover the short and sweet ingredient list on my container: Cream, Skim Milk, Sugar, Egg Yolks, Coffee. That's it! Sure, one serving still contains nearly 55% of my daily saturated fat intake, but it's all-natural fat, and since I can pronounce every ingredient, foodie guru du jour, Michael Pollan, would give me a gold star (well, maybe silver since it's not locally made).

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Puffed Chai Apple Pancake

apples at the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, San Francisco, September 2006

Looking for a decadent way to start your Saturday morning? You must try this puffed apple pancake recipe from Bon Appetit, but substitute powdered chai latte mix (from Trader Joe's or elsewhere) for the three tablespoons sugar. Your kitchen will smell delightful, and your family members will be in your debt for the rest of the weekend.

I know posting's been light here at Erin's Kitchen over the past few months, but have you read all of my Los Angeles restaurant reports--both east-ish and west-ish? Howabout my San Francisco updates? You have? Well then, thank goodness the internet is endless--you should check out the new blogs I just added to my sidebar--you'll love the veggie recipes at Superspark, the photos at Fer Food, and the latest updates on brand new restaurants at LA & OC Foodventures.

Cheap Eats in Highland Park: Huaraches and More

Anyone who tells you good food is too expensive in Los Angeles isn't trying very hard. Sure, you can spend a fortune at Cut or Urasawa, but you'd have to try hard to spend more than $10 a person anywhere on York Boulevard, the delectable culinary thoroughfare of Highland Park--and you'll likely have more fun doing it.

El Huarache Azteca is a small Mexico City-style eatery specializing in its eponymous dish (LA Times photo, left)--a sandal shaped fried masa (corn) patty, stuffed with beans and topped with meat, queso fresco, cilantro, and a squeeze of salsa, at your prefered level of spiciness (ours: wimpy white person). You choose your meat--J was smart and went with marinated pork, I gambled on the chicharron, which I thought would result in crispy, fried pork skin. Unfortunately, I received gelatinous, sauteed pork skins, which even for a porcine-loving girl like me was a bit much. I lost the skins, scarfed the huarache, and wasn't too put out since it merely cost $2.50, plus $1 for my tamarindo agua fresca.

To ensure full satisfaction, however, we walked a couple blocks east and I finished the afternoon at La Estrella, a permanently parked taco truck, one of multiple locations. Bursting with juicy pork meat and dripping with a spicy-thirty-seconds-after-you-taste-it salsa rioja, my $1 carnitas taco made me roll my eyes with delight, and J jealously eyed it, almost wishing he hadn't liked his marinated pork covered huarache quite so much.

Another one bites the dust on my cheap to-eat list. If you have a recommendation, leave a comment and I'll add it to the list. Must be east of La Cienega.

The 2007 Erin's Kitchen Cheap To-Eat List (in no particular order)

Angeli Caffe (thx, Gastronomy 101)
Annapurna (thx, Kalyn's Kitchen--it's not east, but she's not a local, so it counts)
Casa Diaz (via Taco Hunt)
China Islamic (thx, Chez Shoes)
El Huarache Azteca (thx, Chez Shoes)
Food Garden Restaurant (thx, Melting Wok)
Golden Deli (thx, Anon)
Guelaguetza (via myself)
Halal Tandoori (via Eating LA)
J & J Restaurant (thx, LA-OC Foodie)
La Curva (via Foodie Universe)
Los Balcones de Peru (via All Kinds of Yum)
Noshi Sushi (thx, Rachael)
Paris Baguette (via LA Ritz)
Shin Sen Gumi Ramen (thx, Tableau Vivant)
Soot Bull Jeep (via Colleen Cuisine)
Zeke's Smokehouse (via Best of LA)

Friday, February 09, 2007

Farmers' Market, Firefly and Friends


The Thursday night farmers' market in South Pasadena has long been a favorite of mine. As much as I love the Sunday Hollywood market, buying my produce Thursday night is much more conducive to a weekend of cooking, and the South Pasadena market has more than enough bounty, without the crowds. Plus, there's a couple of patches of green grass to plop down on and enjoy your tamales, buttery sauteed mushrooms, or chilaquiles.

Last night I met my old friend Jill of Eye Level Pasadena and new friend Emily of Superspark for a quick tour of the market, and then tapas and Sangria at another favorite South Pasadena spot, Firefly. Every Thursday, they feature ingredients from the market in a small, reasonably priced tapas menu, under their twinkling tent. Last night's crispy tempura fried asaparagus and pear fritters were standouts--and a steal at around $6/piece. Each dish was more than big enough for each of us to have multiple bites. Topped off with a large $20 pitcher of tangy sangria, a great night all around.

South Pasadena Farmers' Market
Meridian Ave & Mission St
4 PM-8 PM, Thursday

Firefly
1009 El Centro Ave
South Pasadena, CA 91030
626-441-2443

Market photo by Jill; Firefly photo from the restaurant's website

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Tomato Confit, By Me!

tomatos, pre-roasting and confit-ing

Way back in October, I devoted a night and a day to creating and canning tomato confit (roasted tomatos preserved in olive oil), following the instructions of fellow foodblogger Chez Pim. I will admit, though I'd made my way through multiple batches of jam, I was a bit concerned about the botchulism potential of canning tomatos in a boiling water bath (some nervous nellies argue for a pressure cooker).

However, subscribing to the belief that if my canned tomatos were really full of poison, I'd know by the look and the smell, I sent off many jars at Christmas to some coworkers. And since they've eaten them and have not dropped dead, I've decided it's safe to open the cans I saved at home. Boy am I glad I did--these suckers are sweet and delicious. The slow overnight roast in a low, low oven concentrated everything good in a end of summer tomato. I highly encourage you to consider doing this as soon as the 2007 tomatos roll in--it's wonderful to pop open a jar of these and know that you made them yourself, and I imagine if I lived somewhere cold I'd appreciate it even more!

My favorite use so far was mixing them with some pesto, then spreading the sauce on homemade pizza dough, topped with mozzarella, bell peppers and mushrooms. Be sure to use the oil in the jars as well, it's perfumed with sweet tomato smell and the scent of the marjoram and thyme sprigs I tucked in each jar.

Monday, February 05, 2007

Breakfast at Blair's, Silver Lake

At left: Blair's at night.

The rocker moms' favorite "fancy" restaurant in Silver Lake now serves breakfast/brunch, and after one visit, I'm a fan. It's easy to like Blair's new breakfast menu since I love me some scrambled eggs, and they have many different versions including the earthy serving of ova, shiitakes and morels I chowed on Saturday morning. Served with buttery sauteed arugula and even more buttery fried potatos and shallots, this dish was lovely, and thanks to the arugula and shallots, different (and better!) than your average hipster brunch dish.

However, if eggs aren't your thing, the menu doesn't provide many options, at least for breakfast (for those of you who will "brunch" on lunch items, it's another story). J settled for the blueberry pancakes---his other option was oatmeal, or any number of pastries. Speaking of pastries, I've praised Blair's dessert donuts in the past, and now they serve them at room temperature for breakfast, still delightfully decadent, stuffed with vanilla cream.

Other morning perks at Blair's: good coffee with frequent refills, multiple copies of the New York Times, a chill soundtrack, and a take-out counter for coffee and pastries. In a nod to the early-rising parents in the neighborhood, breakfast starts at 7 AM, and they're open all day until 10 PM.

Another Blair's brunch review here at Chowhound.

Blair's
2903 Rowena Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90039
323-660-1882

Sunday, January 28, 2007

A Day in DC

9 AM: Market Lunch, Eastern Market
"Bluuuuuuebucks!" shouts the cashier. "An order of Bluuuuuebuuuuuucks!" replies the line cook, and my breakfast was on its way. Blueberry buckwheat pancakes, of course, with real maple syrup and nearly a full ice cream scoop of whipped butter. The bustling Market Lunch counter anchors one end of Eastern Market, Washington's only remaining public market. If you don't order the pancakes, you have to order "The Brick"--egg, cheese and sausage or bacon on a homemade biscuit. Of course, if it's lunch time, you can't pass up the crab cake sandwich--much more crab than cake, this flaky, flavorful patty is the best I've ever had. Lines are long on Saturday morning, but it's well worth the wait. Even if you're full, you must head to the other end of the market and grab some tiny "Toll House" chocolate chip cookies from the bakery; these buttery beauties will wow you. Take a stroll around the outside of the market as well; winter means the local produce is scanty, but the arts and craft tables abound.

12:30 PM Virginia Apples and Cowgirl Creamery Cheese
Back in my hotel room, a working lunch, chomping some crisp Virginia apples and crackers slathered with Cowgirl Creamery Cheese, a California original that just opened a store in downtown DC.

5:00 PM Firefly Lounge
After an afternoon of American portraits and folk art, I need a drink and a snack. The Firefly restaurant and lounge in the Madera Hotel fit the bill. Happy hour specials extend through Saturday night, so all sorts of fun charcuterie items are only $7. I munched on quick cured duck breast with roasted apples while sipping a bracing Manhattan (not on special-a whopping $12). Comfy chairs and cozy candles make this an ideal spot to rest after a long day.



6:05 PM Palena
Palena is my favorite restaurant in Washington, though I've only eaten in the bar. Run by Frank Ruta, a former White House chef, this inventive restaurant serves an extremely reasonably priced cafe menu in the bar, but you can also order individual dishes off the main dining room's prix fix menu (no wonder the no-reservation bar fills up immediately upon opening!). I've found the waitstaff to be wonderfully accomadating to solo diners, and the convivial atmosphere usually leads to one or two delightful conversations with my politico neighbors. The $10 burger on a homemade roll is quite famous, though I usually settle on something a bit more adventurous. This time I relaxed with a bowl of richly-rosemary- flavored minestrone and a small portion of gnocchi with a basic ragu. You can't skip desserts here--my ice cream sandwich, with chocolate chocolate chip cookies was a surprisingly adult-like (not too sugary) end to my meal.

Photo credit: Eastern Market photo by SusanNYC; Firefly tree and Palena logo from the restaurant websites.

Thursday, January 25, 2007

A Pocky Problem

Have ya had Pocky? If you haven't, don't. Unless you're ready to develop an addiction, ignore this Japanese candy/snack. It's dangerously irresistable.

At first bite, you may think, "Eh. What's the big deal?" The chocolate coating's not great, the cracker-like stick isn't salty. It's kinda boring. But then. Then. The package will sit on your kitchen shelf. You'll come home late from work. You'll grab one. You'll grab another. You'll surreptitiously sneak two more. You can't stop. Something sweet after dinner? Grab one, maybe two--they're small. Pretty soon, all you think about is Pocky. Planning your days around trips to Famima! to buy more Pocky. Every night, you rush in the door, head straight for the Pocky pack. Pocky, Pocky, Pocky. Your favorite is the "Men's Pocky" and you worry--can eating too many of these be self-fufilling? Not yet, my friends, not yet.

Monday, January 22, 2007

Pinkberry Addicts Can Get Fix in Los Feliz

Not sure who's eating frozen yogurt in this weather, but the latest in the popular Pinkberry chain has opened its doors in Los Feliz. It's on Vermont Ave, east side of the street, a bit north of the restaurant Vermont. Newish Pasadena-area foodblogger Superspark recently tried her first Pinkberry, and has the picture of the carefully-delivered-to-her-home yogurt to prove it.

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Almonds and Bananas in my Stew


Though my cod stew was rich with fresh ginger, za'atar, and sesame seeds, the almonds and green bananas (in lieu of green plantains) stole the show. The almonds swelled but maintained their crunch, and the bananas added a subtle sweetness. This was the first recipe I've tried from The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Food and Flavors of Africa by chef Marcus Samuelsson.

Samuelsson, born in Ethiopia, was adopted by a Swedish couple as a child, and grew up eating Scandanavian food, the basis for his well-regarded restaurant, Aquavit. In this cookbook, however, he returns to the land of his birth and the 250 recipes representt a culmination of multiple years of travel across the African continent. It includes dishes from Morrocco to South Africa, Libya to Senegal. I'm often skeptical when anything claims to represent all of Africa, considering its enormous size and diversity, but in this case I think he's done an admirable job, stating clearly in the introduction the impossibility of truly expressing the magnitude of the continent and its cuisine. Also, it's enjoyable to read a celebration of the food and the people of the region, when so much of what we hear about Africa is negative.

The book opens with many spice rubs and mixes, and includes multiple bread recipes (always a favorite of mine), including the toasted peanut bread I made to accompany the stew. Dense and dark, it tastes like natural peanut butter, making it as fine for breakfast as for dinner. The book's photos pop, and I enjoyed the stories interspersed with the recipes, giving the reader a true sense of place.

Cod Stew with Sesame Seeds
Adapted from The Soul of a New Cuisine Serves 4-5

1/2 c. whole almonds
4 garlic cloves, cut in half
1 tsp. fresh ginger, grated
3 tomatos, roughly chopped
2 tsp. Za'atar
3-4 c. chicken stock, depending how stew vs. soupy you'd like
salt
1 c. canned black beans, rinsed
1 lb cod fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 green bananas or plantains, peeled and diced
1 large handful spinach leaves or other greens
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. sesame oil
2 tbsp. sesame seeds
juice of two limes

Toast the almonds in large soup pot over low heat, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, stir constantly until aromatic, about 1 minute.

Add the tomatos, za'atar, chicken stock and 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce temperature, and simmer gently for 20 minutes.

Stir in the beans and the cod, simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the bananas or plantains and the spinach, simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for about 10 minutes, until thickened a bit.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and sesame oil in a small saute pan over low heat. Add the sesame seeds and saute, stirring the seeds in the pan, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 5-7 minutes.

Swirl the toasted seeds into the stew, then stir in your lime juice. Add salt to taste.

banana photo by mshades

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Holy Mole

If you're exhausted after a long week of work, walking into Guelaguetza will immediately lift your spirits--the live music, long tables of families celebrating birthdays, smell of mole spices in the air, and of course, the sight of margaritas shaking at the bar.

Guelaguetza has three locations in LA (we visited the one at Olympic/Normandie) and specializes in mole. For those unfamiliar with this Oaxacan treat, it's not "mohl" but "moh-lay". This long-cooked, chili-based, multilayered sauce comes from Oaxaca, Mexico, known as the "land of the seven moles." Ingredients usually include chocolate, roasted nuts, fat of some kind, roasted vegetables, and thickeners such as corn tortillas or plantains. Foodblogger Mattbites recently made his own mole, quite the project.

At Guelaguetza you can get red, yellow, green or black mole. Everyone gets to try the red-it comes slathered on a complimentary plate of fresh tortilla chips. The sweetish sauce gets a kick from the fiery green salsa served on the side. We cleared our portion in no time, and the waiter happily brought us more.

Though the expansive menu includes many non-mole related dishes, I had to try another, so I went with the enmoladas, three fresh corn tortillas stuffed with cheese, drowning in black mole. They come with your choice of meat on the side (really, on the top). My cecina (pork cutlet) was nothing to write home about, but it was a fine vehicle for devouring more of the addictive mole. Smoky and chocolate, a tad bitter and spicy too, I couldn't get enough of it.

Small but potent margaritas rounded out our evening (J ate the carnitas--large bone-in chunks of fried pork with tortillas, rice and beans), though we eyed with envy the tequila shots at the table next to us. We joined in a few rounds of Cumpleanos Feliz (Happy Birthday), then made our way out into the night. We passed up the chance to buy some mole to take home--we couldn't imagine having nearly as much fun in our kitchen alone.

Guelaguetza
3014 W Olympic Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90006-2516
(213) 427-0608
There's a parking lot in back, but there's also ample street parking
Photo by Justin

Visiting Guelaguetza means I get to cross another spot off my to-eat list. Here's the latest below--I've added a couple thanks to Tableau Vivant and Melting Wok. If you have recommendations, let me know and if I haven't already visited, I'll add them. They've gotta be east of La Cienega and not too $$.

The 2007 Erin's Kitchen Cheap To-Eat List (in no particular order)

Angeli Caffe (thx, Gastronomy 101)
Annapurna (thx, Kalyn's Kitchen--it's not east, but she's not a local, so it counts)
Casa Diaz (via Taco Hunt)
China Islamic (thx, Chez Shoes)
El Huarache Azteca (thx, Chez Shoes)
Food Garden Restaurant (thx, Melting Wok)
Golden Deli (thx, Anon)
Guelaguetza (via myself)
Halal Tandoori (via Eating LA)
J & J Restaurant (thx, LA-OC Foodie)
La Curva (via Foodie Universe)
Los Balcones de Peru (via All Kinds of Yum)
Noshi Sushi (thx, Rachael)
Paris Baguette (via LA Ritz)
Shin Sen Gumi Ramen (thx, Tableau Vivant)
Soot Bull Jeep (via Colleen Cuisine)
Zeke's Smokehouse (via Best of LA)

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Five Reasons to Love Lucques

Though I've cooked from the book and snacked at the bar, until my birthday earlier this week I'd never had a proper dinner at celebrated chef Suzanne Goin's first LA spot, Lucques. Here are the top 5 reasons the dinner rocked (thanks J!):

1) A perfect start, part I: drinking the bar's well-made sidecar, with a dash of vanilla and some fresh squeezed citrus.

2) A perfect start, part II: the small dish of the restaurant's namesake olives and oven-roasted, olive oil slicked almonds delivered to your table delights with rich flavors and satisfying crunch, and the intimate act of eating with your fingers sets the mood.

3) The farmers' names show up on the menu: those crosnes I mentioned earlier this week, from the Weiser farm stand? Listed as "Alex's crosnes" in the description of the rabbit dish I ate.

4) Cozy, cozy, cozy: the fireplace, the booth seating, the warm wood, the scented-but- not-stinky candles in the bathroom. LA's cold snap conquered!

5) The complex, layered, comforting dishes: every bite of my rustic and hearty stuffed saddle of rabbit warmed me to my toes. Similarly, my white bean and wild nettle soup toasted my insides while tickling my nose with its peppery bite.

For a more detailed report on dining at Lucques, check out fellow foodblogger A Finger in Every Pie. Update: also check out Monster Munching for a report with pictures!

For those of you not celebrating a special occasion but wanting to sample the Lucques magic, visit the bar after 9:30 PM for its late-night menu, including a marvelous steak frites and a decadent grilled cheese sandwich with roasted shallots.

Lucques
8474 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA
323-655-6277

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Buddha's Hand


It's creepy food week here at Erin's Kitchen.* I got my buddha's hand ("fo-shou" in Chinese; "bushukan" in Japanese) from the jolly Jim Churchill at the Hollywood Farmers Market. Churchill is one of the many citrus growers facing severe losses after the recent cold snap; he was even sharing pictures of his attempts to save his fruit.

Buddha's hand was likely the first citrus fruit known in Europe, and is sometimes given as an offering in Buddhist temples. It holds very little flesh, but the thick peel is not bitter, therefore you can use the entire thing as you would zest or lemon peel. Mine currently perfumes my kitchen with its musky lemony smell, but I have plans to candy it later this week. I'm also intrigued by buddha's hand jam and buddha's hand fruit cocktail.

**I've taken to putting the buddha's hand up my sleeve and pretending its my own then teasing my cats--because I'm that enlightened, ya know.

A NOTE ON PHOTOS: My camera is still MIA, so I've been taking advantage of flickr and the Creative Commons license. Many of the photos I've been using for the past few weeks are licensed under Creative Commons and I'm using them in accordance with the license rules.

Monday, January 15, 2007

Crazy, Crispy Crosnes

crosnes in their natural French habitat, photo by charleebrown

First, it gave me colorful cauliflower. Then, gonzo spinach. Now the Weiser Family Farm stand at the Hollywood market has dazzled me with crosnes: a tiny bulbous tuber from the mint family.

Crosnes (the french name) or Chorogi (the Japanese name) can be eaten raw or cooked like a potato. I agree with a fellow foodblogger that when chomped raw they're reminiscent of jicama, though not as moist and with a bit of a bitter aftertaste. I sauteed mine in butter, sprinkled with salt and pepper, for about 5 minutes--as they cook the bitterness disappears but the crunch remains.

They aren't cheap--$16/pound. Also, I will admit the shape gives me a tinge of the creeps--they remind me of albino slugs. Definitely worth a taste, however; the Weiser stand is on the north end of the Hollywood market, east side of the street.